Bonjour!
I’ve been in Togo for a week and am just getting around to posting.
Take note of the map that I made below with annotations for
each leg of the journey:
(I could not find out how to make the map of airplane travel; I did not drive to Togo from Kenya, although it would have been quite the adventure.)
1: Bomet, Kenya -> Nairobi, Kenya: 5 hours
(Stayed in airport overnight due to runway construction.)
2. Nairobi, Kenya -> Addis Ababa, Ethiopia: 3 hours + 3
hour layover
3. Addis Ababa, Ethiopia -> Lome, Togo: 6 hours
(Slept in a gueshouse in Lome.)
4. Lome, Togo ->
Mango, Togo: 10 hours
Needless to say that I was (and am still) tired from the
journey. Wait until you hear about the
journey back.
And now, my first photo essay from West Africa: Bon voyage! (Abbreviated from my initial conception as it takes ~7 minutes to upload one photo.)
The lunch stop en route to Mango from Lome, on the 10 hour van ride. (Note the tree protruding from the restaurant.) I enjoyed a hearty plate of spicy spaghetti while watching soccer from the English Premiere League. And this may be too much information, but I do not yet have diarrhea.
From the drive. On the 10 hour trek north the towns thinned out, we went through a stretch of mountainous land covered by forest, and then we hit desert. Not the sand-dune desert you think of when you think of the desert, but just a dry and barren land with scattered trees.
L'hopital d'Esperance, or the Hospital of Hope. It was built by American Baptist World Evangelism at the request of the Togolese government and has been in the works for more than 7 years. I have the upmost admiration for all of the people who worked so hard to build the hospital to serve the people here. Coming in for just a month almost feels like taking advantage of their hard work.
Give us this day, our
daily bread.
It is a rare opportunity these days to hear a true
lecturer. Not someone who just prattles
from a powerpoint reading projected slides word-for-word – a lecturer: someone
whose knowledge of a material is so deep and broad that brilliant thoughts skip off of
their mind like stones skipping off a still lake. The lecturer and thinker who comes immediately
to my mind is Dr. John Patrick, the speaker at the Michigan CMDA retreat in February. One
topic that he mentioned was the Lord’s Prayer.
He’s been praying it once in the morning through, and then once again,
stopping on a particular word or phrase to try to delve into the depths of its
inner meaning. Over the past two months I have been trying this practice to
begin the day.
A phrase from the last week: “Give
us this day, our daily bread.”
Here at the hospital there has been a water shortage. It has to do with something to do with the
pumps that put water up in the hospital’s water tower. The regular faucets were shut off and people
are having to use hand sanitizer (expensive) to wash hands in between seeing
patients instead of regular soap and water.
Another shortage is antivenom. In the area there are a species of viper that
is quite poisonous. At this point there
have been a number of mortalities from the bites - the antivenom isn’t effective – and we the
hospital has given most of its supply to people who have come in. Currently there are 2 units left in the
entire hospital, the amount that is given to a person upon admission. Supplies just arrived Saturday, right when our stocks were completely depleted.
Earlier this week we performed a biopsy on a young boy who
had a parotid mass, enlarged submandibular lympy nodes, and a soft-ball sized
abdominal mass. All of these findings
point towards cancer.
Burkett’s lymphoma is very common in West Africa and he was
started on chemotherapy. The therapy
worked – the tumors started shrinking instantaneously – but it worked almost
too well: he currently has a massive GI
bleed from tumor surrounding some vessel in his abdomen shrinking at an
incredible rate which caused it to bleed into his intestines. Blood is coming out of his mouth as vomit and
out of his rectum. We do not have the
normal tools (tagged red blood cell scans, therapeutic options with upper endoscopy,
angiography+interventional radiology to localize and possibly stop the bleeding)
like we would in the States.
He received 3 units of whole blood and was in hemorrhagic shock. The surgery team had been following closely
along with the pediatrics team but we did not feel that there was a role for
operative intervention in a malnourished boy who is on chemotherapy. The decision was difficult, but the potential
for operative mortality was exceedingly high. Underlying surgery is the premise
of success, even when there is potential harm, and in the judgment of the staff
the chances of successfully identifying an obscure source of intraluminal GI
bleeding is low. To compound matters there
are not ventilators at the hospital, making postoperative care for the patient
difficult, if not impossible. As I
walked home from the hospital one thought was going through my head: “Not every
patient needs an operation before they die.”
The next morning when I went in his bed was empty.
Give us this day, our
daily bread
Here at Hospital of Hope there are so many luxuries: working OR lights, a working X-ray machine,
general anesthesia delivered by trained anesthetists, suture selection, sharp
scissors in the OR, excellent nursing care, and brand-new facilities. Many places in the world do not even have
these things that are the bare minimum in the US. The care that is being
delivered here in this setting is nothing short of exceptional. I am blessed to be able to work the people
who are serving here.
Give.
On days that I halt on this line, often the word that I stop
at winds up being Give. Plumbing to
the depths of give alters perspective
and brings back up gratitude. There are so many things to be thankful for in
life aside from what I listed above: food, water, shelter from the sun, the
ability to communicate with friends and family and loved ones, health, the
ability to serve. Give causes one to
realize that what one has is not his own, but provided from someone Else. Not only this, it implies reliance on someone
Else to provide.
So, here at the Hospital of Hope, we do what we can for
people with the skills and tools we have been provided to the very best of our
limited ability, pray, and let God do the rest.
And, oddly enough, there is a comfort to practicing medicine (and
living) in this.
Au revoir,
John
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